Cosmetics of the third millennium
At the end of the second millenium the cosmetology turned into a science,
which uses successfully ad-vanced achievements of various areas of knowledge for
single purpose: to provide to the woman a really healthy condition of the skin
for the whole lifetime, and especially at reproductive age. The cosmetology is
old as the world, as the integral essence of the woman in aspiration to be
beautiful, to be proud of youth and health, in particular of the skin. Since the
days of Cleopatra and up to date, the woman spend many effort and time for skin
care. The women use various cosmetics the choice of which is so great, that
often it is difficult for expert to determine opportunity of application of
separate cosmetics for the separate woman. As a rule, the well-known cosmetics
include as biologically active additions herb components (phytocosmetics),
products of vital activity of insects, in particular bees (entomocosmetics),
minerals (lithocosmetics), seafoods (algae, Crustacea, sea mammal, etc.), bodies,
tissues, products of vital activity of animals (creams on the basis of placenta,
sperm of animals and birds).
There is no doubt that all this cosmetics has certain efficiency, schemas of its
application per age groups per the skin types are developed, it already found
the consumers and supporters. As we specified above, all known cosmetics were
created on the basis of active components of non-human nature.
Cosmeticians of France—the firm Christian Dior, made the first outbreak in this
area when presented the cosmetic line Poison—in the second half of the twentieth
century. The active components derived from human placenta were put as the basis.
Creams of this group were the top of achievement in cosmetology at that time,
and remain up to date. It is known, that the cosmetics obtained on the basis of
herbs, sea-foods, minerals, products of vital activity of insects, bodies,
tissues and products of vital activity of animals, has an effect, but after a
while "habituation" to this effect appears. And, as a rule, the skin demands new,
more and more strong stimulants for maintenance of its stability. At use of
allogenic cosmetics (i.e. made of human materials), habituation is not observed,
as composition of creams includes components which are “native” for a person (in
particular glycosaminoglycans, protein, microelements) which according to the
principle of "replaceable" therapy replace "out-of-date" molecules of the skin
surfaces on young ones. Cer-tainly, when similar replacement is made,
habituation it is not observed, there is simply "rejuvenation" of intercellular
composition of the skin due to increase of water-retaining components (for
example, hyalu-ronic acid).
To choose individual agents correctly of the skin care, each woman should know,
what and when occurs in the skin during the whole cycle of development of the
skin covering. It is known, that there is densely packed layer of cells in the
bottom of epidermis, on a membrane, separating epidermis from the dermis, the
cells are washed off by the blood plasma coming from below from the dermal
layer, and cell division proceeds constantly. After the end of each division one
of two formed cells is pushed out upwards. This cell is moving upwards as a
result of the subsequent fission of the cells, which have stayed on the
mem-brane. Losing connection with nutrients of the blood plasma, the cell loses
ability to division. Simultane-ously, gradually keratinization proceeds outside
under influence of oxygen of the air, any kinds of radiation (including
background one), ecological influences, which is transforming a cell first of
all in a thin plate, and then in a keratin scale, which carries out protective
functions.
The top of the human epidermis consists of 5-6 keratin scaly layers, which are
an efficient membrane, which lets pass oxygen of the air, products of cellular
metabolism—slags, but does not let pass big mo-lecular and, especially, bacteria
and bacterial spores. During keratinization of scales of the upper layer fall
out at the rate close to the keratinization rate. So, in the upper layer of the
skin—the epidermis, three pro-cesses proceed simultaneously and, in most cases
in equilibrium:
– cell fission of the bottom layer of the epidermis;
– transformation of cells in keratin scales;
– falling out of upper external keratin scales.
During puberty (the age from 12 up to 25 years) hormone concentration is
increased in the blood. The hormones strengthen cellular pressure and activity
of metabolic processes. Cell fission of the bottom layer of the epidermis is
accelerated, however, keratinization rate under influence of oxygen of the air,
radiation, etc. remains at the former level and so, the quantity of keratin
scaly layers on the skin surface drops from 5-6 up to 3-2. It, in turn, results
in reduction of protective functions of a natural barrier consisting of these
scales, and to increase of probability of infiltration of bacterial spores or
bacteria into the skin. Result of it is formation on faces of young people
pimples, red acnes, pustules. The thinning of keratin scaly layers results that
the mouth of the hair follicle is extended and bacteria and other microflora
have more easy access to the sebaceous gland. Thus, in overwhelming majority of
cases, an original cause of formation of acne and pustules is hormonal burst and
the changes following it. To interlock these anomalies it is nec-essary to use
the cosmetics containing antimicrobial substances.
Equilibrium in the processes forming epidermis is achieved in the age of 25-35
years. The quantity keratin scaly layers at the top of the epidermis reach the
norm (5-6 layers). The rate of synthesis and destruction of collagen is
gradually becomes slower. During this period it is recommended to apply the
substances stimulating cell fission and providing water-retaining ability of
intercellular matrix.
In the age of 30-45 years, the period of gradual deterioration of functional and
structural condition of the skin begins the beginning of gradual reduction of
hormonal activity. There is increase of thickness of the top protective scaly
layer. Active occurrence of permanent deformation of the skin (small wrinkles)
begins. There is a necessity for use of regenerating cosmetics.
